|鄉親啊, 安怎才叫愛台灣啦? |
|As always, a tourist seeking for authentic local dish often ends up being pathetically diverted to the “tourists’ foods” by tourism bureau propaganda or trip operator scheme. In most cases, the prices you pay for them are admissible as court evidence for racketeering. Don’t be victimized as a, well, a tourist, which is true, during your quest for the true Taiwanese food no more. Go straight for Tseh-Lah-Mee next time. It’s cheap, it’s everywhere, it’s good, it’s entrails-free, that is, no chicken testicle, no pig brain, and most importantly, it’s truly authentic food that is adored by both the rich and the poor. |
Tseh-Lah-Mee is a simple and humble bowl of noodle soup, served by street vendors or small eateries like the one you see in below.
|據說蘆洲切仔麵已經有五十年歷史了.相當不顯眼的招牌,靠的全是口碑. 位於蘆洲信仰中心的旁邊, 這家麵店可說是蘆洲地區切仔麵的代表.||Interestingly enough, all the good foods are found in the proximity to a traditional food market, if not in the middle of it, or a Buddhism temple. Like this one; it locates only 50 meters away from the entrance of the famous Yong-Lian-Sze temple in Lujhou City, Taipei County, and right in the center of a traditional market. The sign says “Lujhou Tseh-Lah-Mee”. It’s been there, allegedly, for about half a century.|
|店老闆很豪爽地開冷氣空調招待客人. 即便是在初春時節,也是會開冷氣, 免得客人吃得滿頭大汗, 店內也不會五味雜陳. 值得鼓勵.||Anthony Bourdain said “if you see plastic chairs, the food gotta be great.” Putting aside hygiene issues, that’s partially true, I must say. Here we have, yes, plastic chairs, fold-away tables, acrylic menu board, the cheapest possible illumination, buckets of dirty dishes. These are all visual signs suggesting great tastes at a bargain.|
|右邊一大堆英文是在介紹台灣黑白切. 說到小菜, 個人認為蘆洲切仔麵的小菜比不上同樣位於蘆洲的阿六切仔麵. 不過, 這裡的湯頭算是比較濃郁的,與大多數麵攤相對較清淡的湯頭相比, 是比較帶勁, 有點日式拉麵湯頭的影子.||A typical Taiwanese noodle eatery serves not only noodle soups but a variety of side dishes to go with. After one century of evolution, these side dishes have been pretty much standardized and there is very little space for the crap of so called fusion. You’ve heard me right; fusion is crap. You can’t argue with it as you can’t argue with vegemite sandwich. They are what they are and it stays that way. Shown in the photo below are three fundamental examples: dried bean curd on the top, sea kelp on the right, and yotofu (oily tofu) on the left. Each has to be cooked in a prescribed way, and that leaves no room for mistake disguised in the name of innovation. When these side dishes are similarly made, the competition among the eateries is then set on a very thin line. Whoever makes one mistake fails. That is how tradition is preserved.
Nonetheless, if you have the appetite and courage for bizarre foods, they are also available here. Pig’s liver, heart, tongue, cheek, lung, skin, and, the digestion duct where pig’s feces go though, the large intestine; all are readily available. And, damn it, whale shark meat is on the menu, too. I’m ashamed.
下圖是蘆洲切仔麵的本尊. 我發現跟一兩年前相比, 份量真的是比較少了. 至於配料也只剩幾根豆芽與韭菜.
我想這也不能苛責店家. 這種景氣, 真的需要大家共體時艱. 三十塊一碗, 還想怎樣呢? 我家這邊一碗麵線都漲到五十塊了!
|Viola! Tseh-Lah-Mee finally shows up. Look how simple it is! All are familiar southeast Asian food ingredient. Noodle, fried onion crust, bean shrouds, and leeks. That’s about it. But a simple thing that has been around for the past half a century and is still going strong is anything but simple.If you know anything about cooking, then you will be curious about the stock. That’s right. The stock determines the market winner. This eatery’s stock is thicker and heavier than others; the color of the stock is somewhat whiter than the other eateries. NT$30 or less than US$1 for one of these. The postage for London-Madrid mail is higher than that. Like any big cities in the world, wherever taxi drivers and big fat mafia-faces show up at the same time at the same place for a meal, it can only be an authentic place to eat without your wallet being stripped. Oh, by the way, forget about your don’t-leave-home-without-it card; they take cash only here.|